Let’s talk about Tallinn

A few months ago, my husband told me that he harbored a wish to see more of our current latitude – specifically, the Baltic countries. So I decided to take him to Tallinn for his birthday.
When living in Helsinki, Tallinn was synonymous with cheap booze trawls or spa-weekends (also on the cheap), but a quick Google established Tallinn as a place, if not THE place, for new Nordic cuisine.

And BOY, was it.

Now, of course, there’s the usual touristy fare and places, as Tallinn has a big and beautiful old town with loads of wonky old houses and squares of Some Historical Significance. There are few things more satisfying as a large, cold beer and a BLT completely devoid of any local flavours on one of the main squares to start of any holiday. This is true EVERYWHERE. It’s an international sign of vacation.

But I digress. We were really looking for something slightly more exciting for dinner, and found it later that night, at Kaks Kokka. Conveniently located next door to our holiday let,  the “little sister” of restaurant Ö (also next door) is a part of the trendy Rotermanni quarter, where old, renovated factories clash with dazzling new architecture in an array of flats, bars and cafes. The architecture is quite out there, at least compared to the, frankly, unutterably boring new builds that are going up both in Sweden and UK. This was an epiphany: Want to live in a cube hovering over an old factory? BE MY GUEST! Want to live in a building that, with its tinted windows and gold details,, essentially looks like a power shower in Trump tower? GO FOR IT! And this is just in the Rotermanni quarter.

Anyway. Back to Kaks Kokka.

We opted for the a la carte menu, ripe with local ingredients – case in point was my starter of greens from the south of the country, including the meatiest, cutest little brain mushrooms. Mmm brain mushrooms.

Here it is in all it’s glory. LOOK AT THAT SALAD! It was mind blowing. A mind blowing salad. A salad!


For the main, Bao buns with magical chicken. Top drawer stuff, let me tell you. So good I was shaking a bit, by the looks of it… sorry about that. And look at that sexy fish on my husband’s plate! I was eyeing it up the whole time. Sometimes, with my fork.


And look at the dessert! The colours! The fact that I could fit in three courses without feeling like a pinata begging to be burst! Massive wins.


Reader, it was a feast. Our waiter gently guided us towards some excellent wine pairings we would not have dared make on our own, which enhanced the experience, as good service should. All in all, I was very smug to have found it. Still am. Do yourself a solid and book a weekend in Tallinn, ok?

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